Asians have flawless skin. At least that’s what the rest of the world thinks. But let’s FACE THE FACTS. That impeccable skin doesn’t come naturally. For many, it takes dedication.
First, let’s look at the plus side—and the first one is a big, big plus—especially up until age 30. Asians are the envy of women around the world because they look younger than their actual age. Asian skin generally contains more melanin, so photo-aging is not a significant problem. They like a fair, even-tone complexion, so they avoid sun exposure, and their skin is less prone to the tell-tale signs of aging—like wrinkling and sagging.
But Asian skin also has its problems:
Sensitivity
Asian skin is susceptible to discoloration from UV rays, hormonal changes, hot water, saunas, and steam. Asian skin also reacts badly to the use of some skin care products, moisturizers, fragrances and acne—all of which can result in skin reactions, scarring and increased pigmentation. Try to avoid those products and/or conditions that cause problems, and begin sun protection at an early age. Look out for ingredients like ammonia and arnia and sodium lauryl sulfate, especially if they appear at or near the top of the ingredient list. If these ingredients are used in minute amounts (toward the bottom of the list), they may not be problematic.
Pigmentation
Because Asian skin produces more melanin, it has a built-in SPF that helps reduce sun- burns, but this melanin also causes more discoloration. Even though the skin may appear to be light, the melanin may reside in the deeper layers of the skin. This excess melanin can induce pigmentation problems—including sun spots, dark patches, and deep discoloration that is resistant to treatment. Dark spots on the cheeks usually begin to appear in the 30’s and 40’s, although they can also appear earlier. Unfortunately, traditional ways of treating these pigmentation problems (IPL, photorejuvenation, light chemical peels and microdermabrasion) frequently are not effective, and may, in fact, cause the pigmentation to worsen.
Apply broad-spectrum UVA/UVB sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day, дождь or shine, and whether you’re indoors or out (UVA rays penetrate windows). Not only will you reduce the risk of skin cancer, you will also help reduce the incidence of pigmentation problems.
Oiliness/Acne
Asian skin tends to have unstable sebaceous glands. Sometimes that excess sebum production leads to discoloration and scarring. Proper care and oil-free moisturizers will help. Avoid products made with mineral oil—it’s the oil most commonly found in skincare products. It’s also important to avoid the use of cleansers that contain alcohol, as that may cause skin to produce even more oil. And don’t make the mistake of using overly harsh cleansers (look out for ingredients like sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate ) as these detergents can be very damaging.
The best way to treat all of these problems—sensitivity, pigmentation and acne—is by stimulating the skin to rejuvenate itself and expedite cellular renewal. All of my product lines are based on this philosophy. Sometimes, in more advanced cases, problem skin will require medical treatment and downtime.
Dr. Obagi is a pioneer in the treatment of Asian skin and has lectured and traveled extensively throughout Asia, training dermatologists and plastic surgeons. He owns and operates a practice in San Gabriel, CA (626.288.5115) with a staff fluent in Mandarin and Cantonese. His main office is in Beverly Hills, CA.
Zein Obagi, MD
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